The Ripening of the Raspberry Cheesecake Capelet. As noted above, the shoulder width creates some space for the neck - equal space in the front and back. The sleeve cap is a triangle that mirrors the shape of the armhole, with the top of the sleeve (the neck edge) measuring 0 to 4 (0 to 10 cm); plus sizes fit best with at least 1 (2.5 cm) remaining at the top of the sleeve. Both sleeve cap and yoke are truncated triangles. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. When I think about it I think Im just following and exaggerating the way the individual stitches lean so it wouldnt matter- when I get to the next sleeve I would do them in the same order. You can change the way increases look by adjusting the number of knit stitches between them. Bonus tip: Our bust line isnt at the underarm. Another option is to eliminate more than two stitches in your first rate A row, which has the added benefit of creating an even more smooth curve. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. These diagonal seams are created by regular decreases that gradually taper the yoke from the underarm width to the neck width. Overall, consider how much neck depth the shoulder shaping is contributing, and evaluate how much additional depth neckline shaping adds. On small-busted women, especially those with large upper arms or lower bodies, these same lines can serve to emphasize that disproportion. The sleeve cap and body can be shaped at different rates or at the same rate; just remember that in most cases, the sleeve and body need to have the same number of rows or rounds between the armhole and the neck. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. Raglan Construction A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques. I enjoy raglan sweater knitting, and I know you will, too. This week we're going to talk about adding length to your sweater and adding optional waist-shaping. I hope that these examples get you started thinking about how much control you have over your raglan knitting projects :), 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 Comments must be approved before showing up. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other Today we are going to look into the pros and cons of knitting a sweater with raglan shoulder shaping and give you some pattern ideas to try out this method. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.Jean Ritchey. ??? Overall the lack of structure particularly at the shoulders can make for a less durable sweater. From the website: The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. Lily Chin said it first, and since her expert advice inspired and enhanced the series, she must be right! If the front neckline is deep (like a scoop or v-neck), the whole sweater may slide down the back. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. But first we come to dividing for the body, which is one of the most exciting parts of a top-down raglan garment . Beginning at the neckline the sleeve cap expands to become the shoulder of the garment. If you were here I would give you a huge hug! (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) If you do a few calculations, you can adjust for yourself, in the same way, to fit a pattern exactly to your body shape. How do I know where to put them, so that it will fit on me? adventurous. This method of FBA can look kind of odd off a body because of how it changes the appearance of the raglan, but it looks just fine on. Cant wait to get going! Compound shaping bends the raglan line into gentle arcs. Instead of avoiding those patterns, what if you put in some neck shaping of your own? To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. I have fallen for more than a few of your designs but was intimidated because I am considered a new-ish knitter. You can tell a sweater has raglan construction when you see 2 diagonal lines on each side (and on both the front and the back), starting at the inside neck and ending at the underarm. THE CIRCULAR YOKE Two ways of visualizing the circular-yoke sleeve and body. This size allows you to get a good measurement But if you want to love raglans, or have already lost your heart to them, compound shaping (and all the other tips from this series) can help you produce the best garments possible. Im going to walk you through adding a shallow short-row neckline to a raglan thats knit in the round from the bottom up. Also the all sizes _inc formula messes up all of my numbers. Id like to repeat my basic rules of fit from an earlier post: 1) The fashion industry assumes that all human bodies follow all of the same geometrical principles at all times. Stitch gauge information must be completed. For bonus points, reference a sweater you have and love that has the perfect crew neck. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. It doesnt always create perfect results, but with a little bit of knowledge, you can easily adjust patterns to suit your body and taste. The Cable Pattern For Body: To create a raglan, a designer will determine the desired yoke depth, shoulder width (stitches at the neck), neck width, bust circumference, and bicep circumference. Subtract starting front neck depth from desired front neck depth to get neck shaping depth. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. over his head if I do it exactly the way the pattern spits out. Every raglan seam should have the same 2 increases worked for each one as that way you are going to have the same seamline at each point. Most body shapes dont increase the size of their upper arms as fast as the bust size increases. If rows used in shaping is FEWER rows than you calculated, youll need to eliminate stitches more slowly. If you make sure your neck increases are a few stitches in from the edge this will give you a clean line of stitches to pick up from. Several other designers, following Maggie Righettis advice from Sweater Design in Plain English, similarly praise compound shaping and its endless flexibility. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. Up until now, these patterns have only been available as part of the book, but over the coming weeks, Ill be releasing the individual patterns one at a time! Wauw - I'm really impressed and glad to find another excel-fan. The raglan sweater style is fun to knit, and I love how the shaping becomes a design element. I think many simple designs can be explained as formulasthough it's not the norm, so people don't tend to do it very often. 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 Isnt that cool? The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. If you have an odd number of neck stitches, Bottom neck stitches should also be odd, and if you have an even number of neck stitches, bottom neck stitches should be even. When working a raglan sweater pattern, each piece can be worked bottom-up or top-down. Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. You will also have a clearer sense right away if you are going to run out of yarn or not, as you will be able to see the full progress of the entire garment as you knit it. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. This is Linda, wearing Soft Structure, which has a shallow V-neck, and more increases in the front than the back - worked beneath the underarm. Ive struggled with them for longer than I should have, and am learning a lot! The pattern you will get from this process will be a guideline to making a Thank you so much for this information. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. The extended sleeve cap, which matches the yoke in depth and number of rows, has a diagonal tension (a line of stress in the fabric) that cuts across the outer arm and shoulder and can be uncomfortable for women with larger upper arms or broad shoulders. For a bit more refinement you could have a mirrored M1R and M1L, and if you were working on a lace cardigan, you might opt to use a yo (yarnover) increase as it would fit with the lace. Compound raglans literally bend the curve, adding small arcs along the raglan line that help sweater fabric lay more smoothly on the upper bodys curves. It seems very useful - can't hardly wait to "play" with it.Thanks for sharing!/Lisbethk, Dear Kristen,I have always loved working raglan sweaters from the neck down, but your instructions are so thorough and easy to follow. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. If you work your raglan straight down from the neck, you will have the front of the neck the same height as the back. Then I admitted to making several top-down raglans as I explained how Id adapt a knitting pattern for yet another one. This pattern includes photo tutorial to make it easy to follow. If the pattern already has them distributed in compound shaping, add your new decreases evenly. Thank you! I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. Count out and highlight a number of cells that corresponds to the number of neck shaping rows and the number of neck stitches, and draw the neckline you want to make. If you notice a garment has a funnel shape, thats coming from the shaping rate in the raglan (or if working a round yoke, in the yoke chart). So cute for a summer tee, dont you think? stitch for your test piece, you will have to mentally substitute the name of your pattern stitch The front and back views show how shoulders slope downwards quickly near the neck, then more gently until they reach their full width. The top down version is entirely seamless which makes it very accessible for beginner sweater knitters. This file is awesome. Weve already covered many fitting tips and techniques in this series, and heres our final suggestion: compound raglan shaping can also refine fit. A sporty bit of knitwear that can take on many personalitiesfeminine and lacey, structured and austere, simple and chunky, or refined and fitted. Learn how to knit the easy way, how to knit the raglan armhole shapingHere is the link to my other knitting channelwww.youtube.com/channel/UC7dn1Kn3wCkjERvV3. Thanks for your advice CarolI will experiment a little with spacing out my raglan increases. Please confirm you want to block this member. From the website: "The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. If you still have rows leftover, you can re-evaluate your neck depth or consider working bind-offs instead. The compound raglan allows for a more flattering fit because the rate of increase varies to more accurately follow the shape of the body. You will need to mentally reckon with yourself that you will at some point have almost an entire sweater in your lap while you are still knitting with it, this will put more weight onto your hands and wrists. Add a few rows to the yoke to make it deeper, or decrease fewer times in the sleeve to make the shoulders wider. If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. Jean, I'm so happy to share what I know with others, and I'm glad you think this is useful! To counter them, add a few extra decreases in the yoke. Generally I use M1R before and M1L after but reversing it works fine if you keep it consistent. The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. To get from raglan depth to yoke depth, you need to add in one-half of the shoulder stitches. Copyright 2023, Kristen TenDyke Designs | Powered by Shopify. for kids and adults. The factors are Snug = 2"; Comfortable = 4"; and Loose = 6". 7 sizes; XS-3XL Part One: Getting Started . But you wouldn't solve this by working right back and forth across between the back raglans. These steps assume you create a crew neck a shallow, round neckline. Any questions? Round to an even number. PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. Knitting In the Round 3 Ways: DPNs, Two Circulars, or Magic Loop? I will say that this method can produce extra fabric in the underarms if your full bust point is low, which is why I'm working on that other post! Short Row Shaping at the Back Neck. My reason for contacting you is just to let you know that the percentages for the Great for those new to crochet! While it looks like Caelius uses yarnovers as the increases, its actually got a centred decrease with a yarnover, and then the increases are outside this. With Raglan top down you would need to start with the neck size you want. having a pattern that spells everything out to the letter Add a few stitches to your bicep to give yourself some extra room. Neither will cause bunching or will change the shape of the sweater in any way. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts! A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. So I guess the percentages are a bit different on little ones. Raglan: [biographical name] 1st Baron 1788-1855 FitzRoy James Henry Somerset British field marshal. Is this correct? I just purchased Caelius to knit for my teen daughterit will be my first A-line sweater and I think the Dovestone DK is the perfect yarn. For a crew neck, this is typically 40 55 % of front neck certain stitches. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. Posted on 28 Jan 15:32, The Ripening of the Raspberry Cheesecake Capelet Posted on 27 Oct 18:04, New & Improved - Stormy Top Posted on 13 Oct 23:59, It's time for Autumn Field Socks! us newbies. Note - if you have a hump on your back you can solve that with short rows - but they'll extend past the raglan lines so that they don't create that sharp little bubble. if you'll be casting on 16 underarm sts, you'll work raglan increases in the front/back until you have 83 sts, then 16 will be cast on at the underarm, giving you 99. . I have to learn a lot!. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. But you can also use this information to modify a pattern you're working from. Might be easiest starting with a pattern? It's knitting a little pocket for a nonexistent neck boob. Thank you so much if you can help! I was just wondering if you have any thoughts on this matter. The raglan sweater can be knit either top down or bottom up. It is really helpful! Heres the formula: Stitches to shape out / 2 = stitches used in shaping rate A (round this so its an even number), Youll eliminate the remaining stitches one per turn (work right up to the double stitch, then turn your work), Stitches to shape out stitches used in shaping rate A = stitches used in shaping rate B, Rows used in shaping: Rate A + (Rate B *2). Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. I just love this sort of historical stuff. Any. Thank you soon much for the tutorial. I am narrower at the shoulder and wider in the body and hip area. Day 5 Pattern - click here for a PDF of sizes XS through XXL! Post your comments or questions here, or to get questions answered, interact with other knitters and find more free stuff, join my students group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/knittingclasses/If you haven't done so already, I hope you'll like my knitting classes page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/knittingclasses 5. The Audubon Shrug by Lisa Shroyer, from her book, Knitting Plus.Raglan sweaters can be attractive on plus-size women, but its an issue of individual shape. If you've seen a pattern that has short rows that are worked just between the raglan columns in the back, you probably want to skip those rows. Here are five of the most common raglan adjustments that modern pattern designers use to create a better-fitting top-down seamless sweater. You probably then want to add a few more underarm increases to bring the bust size up to what you need. The raglan sleeve got its name from Englishman FitzRoy James Henry Somerset, the 1st Baron Raglan, who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. Check out the illustration. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! Such a huge mystery for meSOLVED! I am so grateful that you give examples and this excel file.Now I can start to design my own sweaters and I really happy and thankful. Finished bust measurement pre-wet blocking of 38.5 inches, and post blocking of 41 inches. Thanks for the tutorial. That code will be available when you purchase the patterns or digital book. In contrast, the raglan line on Lily Chins Floret Crochet Crop Top, with traditional shaping, forms a straight line. 1. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. However, it doesnt really give the most stable underarm area. The raglan sleeve is a popular choice for casual knitting projects. In the fashion illustration below, the side view reveals a curve just below the neck (between shoulder and high bust), then another curve where high bust becomes full bust. So if youre a designer, youve got a stitch count at the sleeve and a stitch count in the front and back. I have been using Excel for years to ensure I understand the pattern and to create a clear, clean pattern customized just for me! You will also need to have stitch holders When Lisa Shroyer discussed armholes that do and dont work for knitters, she noted the figure attributes that can get in the way of raglan love. This is the number of inches youll need to lower the front neck to create your dream neckline. Great job and thank you for sharing! Knowing your gauge is It can be helpful to think of it as turning away from stitches, almost as if we had placed them on waste yarn. Without this shaping, the collar will be pulled to the back. The raglan sweater is characterized by diagonal shaping along the join between the sleeve cap and upper body. Looking forward to meeting you in September. When you get down to the torso of the sweater it can easily be shaped and fitted any way you like it. I just finished a raglan sweater, and Im really enjoying wearing it. The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. The contents of this post first appeared in one of my weekly Studio Updates. That's why top down raglan are the least customizable of all sweaters. This decorative seam continues down into the a-line body and forms the focus of interest for the sweater. When you are creating your raglan seam, you can use any type of increase that you wish. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? Tell us, in the comments! Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. Heres Interweave Knits Editor and Knitting Plus author, Lisa Shroyer, to tell you more about raglan construction and how it works for plus-size knitting. Im planning a top down raglan that will be partly machine knit and partly hand knit (color work on body and sleeves just below division from yoke). I figured it out decently enough for my daughter, so I'll do ok with this one, as well - Its deep back covers any unsightly lumps we may have, and the tailored style is classic. The line you measure should be perpendicular to the floor, not at an angle to the middle of the neck (see illustration above). This gives each section a triangular shape. Raglan lost his right arm in the Battle of Waterloo and some have speculated that the raglan style was developed by his tailor to fit better on his armless side than a traditional shoulder and sleeve. Best wishes and keep going with this unique, understandable and helpful content. This method makes the pattern fit your gauge. If you turned your work at the same stitch over and over, youd create a vertical line, but you couldnt work the next row. Short rows cannot accommodate long straight vertical lines. These little crochet hearts can be stuffed with the love-infused herbs recommended, or your favorite scented herbs, and a rose quartz stone or bead to amplify the sense of love radiating off of this precious gift. The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked up from around the armhole.. lol Yours is a major contribution and I would like to applaud you. You can use Kniterator to DIY your own basic top-down raglan sweater, yoke sweater, camisole, or cowl - all in your size and your gauge. If a raglan is worked with plenty of positive ease, however, these problems are alleviated. In this video we learn how to use a formula to easily calculate shaping in knitting. The casual, sporty look of raglans gives them a somewhat youthful look that has long made them a favorite in knitwear. Knit the stitch as normal. Youll need to add one more row to resolve all those double stitches, so the formula is: Rows worked in raglan shaping per pattern - neck shaping rows - 1. Knitting is an art, but the engineering-part of my brain is constantly questioning why so many designs can't just be explained as formulas. In contrast to yoke depth, which is the total depth of the top part of the sweater, raglan depth is simply the rows you work from the cast-on to the underarm. Its a vertical measurement and you just apply your row gauge to the number of rows worked. You'll want to add no more than about 5/8" right beneath the collar, and if you need to make up extra length you can work some short rows in the middle of the back too. The style of these "lines" can be different depending on the design, but here are some examples of what it looks like this: Arlo & Alice baby/child cardigan Sweaters with raglan shaping have distinctive "seams" between the front (s), back, and sleeves that form diagonal lines running from the neck edge to the base of the armholes. The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102. Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. The more complicated a design gets, the more challenging it is to make into a formula, and so many of the designs coming out these days are pretty complicated. Hello, thanks for your interesting explanation. Common misconception: all raglans increase in the front and body every other row and are seamless. Why dont traditional raglans always fit womens figures perfectly, even when designers, crocheters, and knitters have achieved the perfect armhole depth? Important: Make a test square in the pattern stitch in Any ideas for a neat front neck increase? maybe using some of the increments from the other sweater calculator that goes in sizes Both sweaters are for my kiddos. A raglan can be worked either bottom-up (with decreases to shape the pieces) or top-down (with increases to shape the pieces). When you're knitting a top-down raglan sweater, you can make raglan increases in many dif. My 6 year old has a chest measurement of 23 (rounding up) and a head measurement of 21! The needle size does not enter into calculation of the garment pattern. I would not aim for a highly customized fit in a raglan, but you can certainly get a more body-conscious fit in a raglan than you would a drop-shoulder. Thanks again and do keep designing and sharing. With certain yarns, the sweater may twist on you over time, having been knitted in a spiral, which is what in the round technically ends up being. Feel free to ask! The Audubon Shrug is truly special. This is a useful construction that allows you to try on the sweater as you go. PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! Cecelia. In comparison to a sweater that is knit in small pieces and seamed together the one big piece may feel more cumbersome to work with as it grows into a sweater. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the. Half of our bottom neck stitches come before the marker. You're very welcome. Pattern + overview / Part 1: Casting on and marking raglans / Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping / Part 3: Finishing the neck and yoke / Part 4: Separating the sleeves and body / Part 5: The art of sweater shaping / Epilogue: The possibilities are endless. Because the top of the sleeve forms the neck edge, the front neck shaping can be included in the final rows of the sleevesangle the top of the cap by working more shaping on the side that will correspond with the front of the body. For each raglan seam I do one increase before and a different one after it. On the left side, in red, there are two arrows showing raglan length. Lets dive in and check out why you might want to try knitting a raglan style sweater! This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. You can get that same weird built-up neckline look from a sweater with or without short rows or neck shaping. May I ask, when knitting a raglan top down and adding short rows to raise the back neck, do you do these once you are already knitting in the round, or do you do a few back and forth rows? When you knit a raglan the traditional top-down way ( as detailed in my tutorial ), what you're making for the yoke is a flat rectangle with a hole in the middle for your head and mitered corners, which are the raglan "seams.". At the underarm, a few stitches are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. Sign up here! Im not using a pattern, but I guess there has to be some general rule for this.
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